Puppy Training Basics Week by Week: A Complete Guide for New Owners

Bringing home a new puppy is exciting, but let's be honest—it can feel overwhelming. You're suddenly responsible for a tiny creature that pees everywhere, chews your shoes, and has no clue what "sit" means. I've trained over a dozen puppies in my years as a dog behavior consultant, and the biggest mistake I see? Owners jumping into advanced tricks before nailing the basics. This week-by-week puppy training guide cuts through the noise. We'll start from day one, focusing on what actually works: a structured schedule that builds confidence, prevents bad habits, and turns your pup into a well-mannered companion. Forget generic advice; here's a practical plan you can follow step by step.

Week 1: Bringing Your Puppy Home and Initial Setup

The first week is all about comfort, not commands. Your puppy is scared, adjusting to a new environment. Push too hard, and you'll create anxiety that lasts for months. I learned this the hard way with my first Labrador—I tried to enforce strict rules immediately, and she ended up hiding under the couch for days.

Setting Up a Safe Space

Choose a small, enclosed area like a bathroom or playpen. Add a bed, water bowl, and chew toys. This becomes your puppy's den—a place where they feel secure. Avoid giving free roam of the house; it's too stimulating and leads to accidents.

Introduction to Family Members

Keep introductions calm. Let the puppy approach people at their own pace. No loud noises or sudden movements. If you have kids, teach them to sit on the floor and let the puppy sniff them. This builds trust faster than forced cuddles.

Potty training starts now. Take your puppy outside every hour, plus after meals, naps, and play. Use a consistent phrase like "go potty." When they do it outside, praise enthusiastically. Inside accidents? Clean with an enzyme cleaner—ordinary soap won't remove the scent that draws them back. The American Kennel Club emphasizes consistency in early potty training for long-term success.

Weeks 2-3: Socialization and Early Habits

Socialization isn't just about meeting other dogs. It's exposing your puppy to various experiences in a positive way. Miss this window (up to 16 weeks), and you risk fear-based behavior later. A client of mine skipped socialization due to busy schedules, and their dog now barks at every stranger.

Focus on controlled exposures. Carry your puppy to safe places: a quiet park, a friend's house, a vet visit for a check-up (not just when sick). Let them see different surfaces, sounds, and people. Reward calm behavior with treats.

Expert Tip: Many owners think socialization means dog parks. Avoid them until your puppy is fully vaccinated—around 16 weeks. Instead, arrange playdates with vaccinated, friendly adult dogs in a secure yard.

Start basic handling. Gently touch paws, ears, and mouth. This makes grooming and vet exams easier later. Pair it with treats so your puppy associates handling with good things.

Chewing is natural. Provide appropriate toys like rubber Kongs or rope toys. If they chew furniture, redirect to a toy. Never punish—it just teaches them to chew when you're not looking.

Weeks 4-5: Introducing Basic Commands

Now your puppy is settled, it's time for simple obedience. Keep sessions short—5 minutes max, multiple times a day. Puppies have short attention spans.

Teaching "Sit" and "Come"

For "sit," hold a treat near their nose, then move it up and back. As their head follows, their bottom will naturally lower. Say "sit" as it happens, then reward. For "come," use a happy voice and reward when they approach. Practice indoors with no distractions first.

Leash training begins. Let them wear a collar or harness for short periods indoors. Attach a lightweight leash and let them drag it around supervised. Then, hold the leash and follow them—don't pull. This gets them used to the feeling without pressure.

Here's a quick reference table for weeks 1-5 priorities:

Week Focus Areas Key Activities
Week 1 Safety, Potty Training Start Set up den, hourly potty breaks, calm introductions
Weeks 2-3 Socialization, Chewing Management Controlled exposures, handling practice, redirect chewing
Weeks 4-5 Basic Commands, Leash Intro Teach sit/come, short leash sessions, reward-based training

Weeks 6-8: Solidifying Obedience and Problem-Solving

By now, your puppy should understand basic routines. This phase is about consistency and adding slight challenges. I see owners get lazy here—they skip training days, then wonder why their puppy regresses.

Increase command difficulty. Practice "sit" and "come" in different rooms or with mild distractions like a TV on. Start teaching "stay": ask for a sit, then step back one step, return and reward. Gradually increase distance and duration.

Address common issues like biting. Puppies explore with their mouths. When they nip, yelp loudly (like a puppy would) and stop play for 30 seconds. This teaches bite inhibition. If they persist, redirect to a toy. Never hit or yell—it increases aggression.

Potty training should be more reliable. If accidents still happen, revisit the schedule. Are you missing cues like sniffing or circling? Puppies usually need to go after waking, eating, or playing. A study from the University of Bristol notes that consistent routines reduce house-soiling by up to 70%.

Introduce crate training if you haven't. Make the crate cozy with blankets and treats. Feed meals inside with the door open, then gradually close it for short periods. This helps with alone time and prevents destructive behavior.

Common Mistakes New Owners Make (And How to Avoid Them)

Training isn't just about what to do—it's about what not to do. Here are pitfalls I've seen repeatedly.

Overdoing Socialization: Flooding a puppy with too much too fast causes fear. One client took their 10-week-old to a noisy street fair; the puppy shut down and now hates crowds. Go slow, watch for stress signs like trembling or hiding.

Inconsistent Rules: Letting your puppy jump on you sometimes but not others confuses them. Decide on rules as a household and stick to them. If jumping isn't allowed, everyone must ignore the puppy until all four paws are on the ground.

Neglecting Mental Stimulation: Physical exercise isn't enough. Use puzzle toys or hide treats for them to find. A bored puppy becomes destructive. My own Border Collie needed daily brain games to curb her chewing phase.

Punishment-Based Training: Scolding for accidents or chewing teaches fear, not learning. Positive reinforcement—rewarding good behavior—works faster and builds a stronger bond. Research from the Journal of Veterinary Behavior supports this for long-term obedience.

Your Puppy Training Questions Answered

My puppy bites constantly during play in week 3. Is this normal, and how do I stop it without making them afraid?
Yes, biting is normal—puppies use their mouths to explore and play. The key is teaching bite inhibition, not suppression. When they bite too hard, let out a high-pitched yelp and immediately stop play for 20-30 seconds. This mimics how littermates communicate. If they bite gently, praise and continue. Avoid pulling your hand away quickly, as that can turn it into a game. Over time, they learn to control their bite pressure. I've found that providing plenty of chew toys and scheduling regular nap times (overtired puppies bite more) reduces this behavior significantly.
Potty training feels endless in week 4—my puppy still has accidents inside. Am I doing something wrong?
Probably not, but check your routine. Puppies have small bladders and may need to go out every 30-45 minutes during active periods. Are you using an enzyme cleaner for accidents? Regular cleaners leave scent residues that attract them back. Also, watch for subtle signs like sniffing the floor or circling. If accidents persist, confine your puppy to a smaller area when unsupervised—it's easier to manage. Some breeds, like Dachshunds, take longer to housebreak due to stubborn streaks. Consistency is crucial; don't get discouraged—most puppies are reliably trained by 4-6 months.
How do I socialize my puppy before vaccinations are complete without risking disease?
This is a common concern. You can socialize safely by avoiding high-risk areas like dog parks or public sidewalks where unvaccinated dogs may have been. Instead, carry your puppy to places like pet-friendly stores (e.g., hardware stores that allow pets), friends' homes with vaccinated dogs, or quiet parking lots to watch traffic from a distance. Puppy socialization classes that require proof of vaccination are also excellent—they're controlled environments. The risk of under-socialization (leading to behavior problems) often outweighs the disease risk if you're cautious. I always recommend consulting your vet for local disease prevalence advice.
My puppy ignores commands when distracted outdoors by week 6. Should I use a stricter training method?
No, stricter methods usually backfire. Your puppy is learning that commands work indoors but not yet in distracting environments. Go back to basics: practice in your yard first, then on a quiet street. Use higher-value treats like small pieces of chicken or cheese. Keep sessions short and fun—if they ignore you, reduce the distraction level rather than forcing compliance. I've seen owners resort to leash corrections too early, which just makes the puppy anxious outdoors. Build up gradually; it can take weeks for commands to generalize to new settings. Patience pays off more than pressure.

Puppy training week by week isn't about perfection—it's about progress. Each week builds on the last, creating a foundation for a happy, obedient dog. Start with safety and socialization, add commands gradually, and always prioritize positive reinforcement. Remember, the goal isn't a robot; it's a companion who trusts you. Stick to this plan, adjust based on your puppy's personality, and you'll avoid the common pitfalls that trip up so many new owners. Got more questions? Drop them in the comments—I'm here to help.

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